The Liberty Launcher was added to the game.Strange Cosmetic Part: Freezecam Taunt Appearances Strange Part: Robots Destroyed During Halloween Strange Part: Unusual-Wearing Player Kills Strange Part: Medics Killed That Have Full ÜberCharge Strange Part: Kills While Explosive Jumping Only the first statistic counts towards the strange rank. We want less height (10 ft will be perfect) with a lot more speed, so we move the hook somewhat forward. Gliders normally have the hook close to the CG to get as much height as possible with enough speed to fly. Forward hook position will give more speed and less altitide, rearward hook position will give less speed but more height. My 25 oz EDF Hawk starts about 1/2 up my 2ft ramp and gets going nicely at 5x pull.Īlso note that bungee hook position on the model plays a key part in how the model leaves the ramp. This would be dependant on model aerodynamics, weight and bungee pull (experience helps determine). You must use so much rail so that the airplane has speed enough to fly when it leaves the ramp. That should get you in the right ball park. I use about 5 times the model weight for bungee pull, and use a fish scale to get the pull right. I guess you can see what happens next *ouch* This makes a nice "arrestor hook" - about 10 ft in the air. I can tell you from first hand experience that the prop will catch the cord and wind it thoroughly around the propshaft if you hit it too early. If you're bungee'ing a prop model you MUST wait with the throttle until you see that the cord is WELL clear of the model! ( I wonder if my back is up to putting enough strain on the rubber for a successful launch ? ) This 'system' was used for around 4 years - and 'catapulted' many different models - including one with an OS.10 engine, and small gliders weighing around 2lbs.Īs my back problems now preclude the handlaunching of model planes, I think I shall make myself another catapult. I had only to walk backwards a little way whilst holding the model TIGHTLY over the fuselage at the wing position ( slightly behind the CofG ), and let go. My models are all own-designs and mainly balsa-built, so they invariably have.Īt the field, the stick was pushed into the ground, and the wire ring was hooked around the plastic hook. and so require no major surgery - provided your model has enough material in the right place. The same shop sells plastic tow hooks - which are fixed to your model with a small woodscrew at each corner. ![]() ![]() It takes far longer to type than to do it.! I then tied one end of the rubber to the blunt end of a stick ( a sharpened 3/8" birch dowel ), and tied the other end to a short length of string with a wire ring on other end of that. this was the kind of string sold at the post office for wrapping parcels in brown paper. Years ago, I got a box containing a LONG length of '1/4" flat' folded it into two, tied a knot at each end, and tied string around the rubber on each side of each knot. My local model shop sells rubber for rubber powered models - like in the good ol' days.
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